Moving on

The weather didn't improve in Kaikoura so we left the following morning,as planned, but sans dolphin experience. Christchuch to a peninsula called the Banks Peninsular and our stopping point, a small town called Akaroa. We were supposed to have a studio apartment but were again upgraded to a two bedroomed apartment which could easily have accommodated a family. I'm not sure whether people think we've been arguing and need space to sleep alone or (more likely) it's because of the reputation of the company we've used to book the trip and the desire to keep well in with them. Whatever it is I'm all for it.

Akaroa is a strange place in a number of ways. Firstly, it is built on a bay which was formed by the collapse of a volcano rim and is surrounded by three similarly collapsed (and extinct) volcanoes. This gives the whole peninsula a strange, almost circular, shape and a coastline which looks as though it has been nibbled by a giant.

Secondly, Akaroa is a French town. Strange but true, it was established by French colonists who hoped to claim New Zealand for France but who were too late! Instead they built a town with a Rue Jolie and a French butcher's shop. Some of the locals still speak French (with a New Zealand accent).

Akaroa's economy has benefited by an influx of cruise ships into the deep water harbour. Most have previously used Lyttleton which is at the other side of the peninsula but this is still recovering from the effects of the earthquakes. Akaroa was affected and signs are still apparent (our apartment had floor tiles which had been damaged. The war memorial had lost two buttresses and the local Gaiety Hall had been declared unsafe.

On the subject of the earthquake, we have been talking tonight at our latest stop, Lake Tekapo, with a young couple (English emigres) who live in a suburb of Christchurch. When asked how they had managed they said they were lucky as there house was still habitable - it soon became clear that this meant one wall was braced to stop it falling down, door frames were buckled and windows needed replacement. The Government indemnifies people against earthquake damage and their house has been identified as needing two walls replacing as well as more cosmetic repairs ("we never liked the floor tiles anyway"). Tales of living in the aftermath with no heating, lighting or working sanitation began to bring home how much people have suffered, but they were stoical and resigned.

We are now in the Alpine region of Southland. From our bedroom we can see snow covered peaks in the distance and Lake Tekapo itself is a bright turquoise colour. Today we went up Mount John where there is an observatory and looked at the 360 degree vista of the lake, mountains and rivers. Stupendous.

Tomorrow we will either stay locally or drive the 60 miles to Aoraki, Mount Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand.

Pictures will follow tomorrow