Monday 23 January 2012

Rotorua and Napier


Rotorua - a really strange place (or at least to us it was). NZ's number one tourist destination with a mile long road lined with motels and hotels, described to us as RotoVegas, closed at 9 o'clock at night and the centre seemed deserted by 9.30! The first night we were there we ate at a Turkish restaurant and were worried that at 8.00 we might not be able to find a table but most good Kiwis seemed already to have eaten and be on their way home.We went for a drink afterwards and we were the only people in the bar!

Rotorua is one of the most active geothermal and volcanic areas in the world, and it certainly smelled that way. All around town it is possible to see clouds of gas rising and the smell of rotten eggs pervades. Geography teachers and graduates amongst you would love it. The town is set on an eponymous lake and the setting is stunning. All around are reminders both of the European and Maori heritage. The old Bath House set in Government Gardens has a distinctly colonial look and feel about it and the bowls matches taking place in front of it (with stereotypical white elderly players) could be taking place in Eastbourne. The Maori statues could not.



The hotel we stayed at is regularly voted No 1 in Rotorua (some accolade considering the high number of hotels in the town), but I couldn't decide whether it was a case of emperor's new clothes. Described as a boutique hotel it was "stylishly" decorated in a black and white motif in both the public rooms and bedrooms, very nice. And yet...... the rooms were all in a refurbished motel block which resembled an old Travelodge, nicely refurbished but.... I have to say I was also rather unsure about the white plaster rhino heads on the wall in the restaurant, even if the horns were decorated with Rhin(o)estones! Sue liked the hotel and the room.


Our major outings in Rotorua were to Wai-O-Tapu thermal wonderland and a Maori Cultural event and Hangi (feast). Wai-O-Tapu is an area of volcanic activity and has the Lady Knox geyser which erupts each morning (in fact it is encouraged to erupt by the introduction of a surfactant which breaks down the water surface tension and creates the eruption). Quite a sight (even if it did require an early start to the day), the various pools and their mineral deposits were really something.




The Maori feast and Hangi featured performers doing traditional songs and dance and, of course, the Haka. The evening struck a nice balance between entertainment and information and we thoroughly enjoyed it. The food was cooked in a pit over white hot volcanic rock and had a lovely smoky taste to the vegetables as well as to the meat.



Today we have driven to Napier, some magnificent scenery (including our first snow capped peak, Mt Tangoriro). Napier is known throughout New Zealand for its Art Deco buildings. These were erected after the city was devastated by an earthquake. Tonight we ate at the GMK - the Grand Masonic Kitchen (I kid you not, and not a joke about strange handshakes) which turns out to be Napier's answer to Wetherspoon's (without people).


More next time about Art Deco and, if you're lucky, about Gerard the owner of Mon Logis where we are staying. A Bientot!


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